Current Fellows

Update from Zihuatanejo

  • April 21, 2016
  • Jessica Reilly

We are about to depart from Zihuatanejo. We have spent the past two days exploring and reprovisioning here. The town is unlike any we have seen yet, it somehow has the humm of a busy city and the quaintness and relaxed vibe of a coastal town. The bay itself is beautiful; steep, jungle-clad hills (mostly

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Introducing Miss Woubi, Ivory Coast’s Unlikely Cross-dressing Pageant

  • April 15, 2016
  • ICWA

The Guardian – In a new article, ICWA Fellow Robbie Corey-Boulet shares the story of Ivory Coast’s Miss Woubi pageant. According to Corey-Boulet “the event, first held in 2009, takes its name from an Ivorian slang word referring to the so-called “effeminate” partner in a relationship between two men – the one who, as Ivorians put

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Finding Altata: the Slow Change for the Fishers

  • March 23, 2016
  • Jessica Reilly

“Whatever you do, don’t go to Altata.” These were the last words we heard as we cast off our dock lines in Guaymas. We were about to sail 300 miles with limited charts but plentiful warnings—with the goal of getting to this near-mythical town protected by a bar that might as well have been filled

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Update from La Cruz de Huanacaxtle

  • March 7, 2016
  • Jessica Reilly

We are nestled into the tropical marina here in La Cruz, a slice of civilization like we haven’t seen in quite a while. We are tucked into beautiful Banderas Bay, which is surrounded by tall, jungle clad mountains–a real treat after seeing only coastal plane for the past few months. There is a big sailing

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Mad Magazines

  • March 4, 2016
  • Jonathan Guyer

Harper’s Magazine – In a feature released this month, Fellow Jonathan Guyer writes about the role of underground comics in Egypt. The piece focuses on cartoonist and satirist Mohamed Andeel, one of  four founders of Tok Tok, the zine that launched a politicized comics movement in the country. The feature is available online to Harper’s subscribers or

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The Presence of Clouds

  • February 19, 2016
  • Scott Erich

Forecasting the weather is difficult in Oman. While it’s warm and sunny almost every day, problems arise when it does rain, so people tend to keep one eye on the sky. Muscat averages just a couple inches of rain per year that come in brief downpours of a few minutes. When these outbursts happen, an

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Remembrance of Things Past

  • February 10, 2016
  • Jonathan Guyer

The Cairo Review of Global Affairs – In his review of Riad Sattouf’s graphic memoir, The Arab of the Future: A Childhood in the Middle East, 1978-1984, Fellow Jonathan Guyer delves into the growing legitimacy of comics as art and “the power of alternative modes of history.” The Arab of the Future is the first in what will

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Under the Surface of Sea Level Rise: the Fisherman’s Secret Plight

  • February 9, 2016
  • Jessica Reilly

‘Its beauty has been compared with the Greek isles,’ the guidebook waxed—followed by the incongruous statement that Topolobampo is primarily a cargo port. “Sounds good to me,” Jon said with a grin as we sat around the table on Oleada, discussing our trip through 400-plus nautical miles of coastline mostly unexplored by sailors. Beginning from

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At Both the Center and the Edge

  • February 8, 2016
  • Scott Erich

The beguiling rhythms of the tide have drawn Omanis seaward for millennia, and ancient routes and industries have continued into the present day. Oman’s biggest centers of population are former ports of importance, and their residents live at the mercy of the ocean, drawing their livelihood from fishing and seaborne trade. Nowhere is this more

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Taste, Scent, Trade

  • February 1, 2016
  • Allyn Gaestel

January 19, 2016 LAGOS, Nigeria—In early December, Christmas materialized across Lagos. Office buildings transformed into gleaming beacons of the season, bedecked in detailed patterns or whole sheets of twinkle lights. Street vendors hawked Santa hats. Parties proliferated. Crime spiked. Urban transplants worried how they would finance a flamboyant family reunion on their return to the

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